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Replace and Install New Speakers in BMW E46 3 Series Sedan 1999-2005

by Jon on May 9th, 2017

After months of searching for a new project car I found a 2004 330i ZHP sedan with just a tad over 100k miles. I found the vehicle at a BMW dealer in Texas from a local trade-in for a 2-series coupe. After quickly making a deal with the selling dealer the car was on a hauler destined for my home address. Within a few weeks of ownership I had a long to-do list of projects with one of them being a speaker update. I reviewed a few different off the shelf options and finally decided on assembling my own parts.

To gather the parts required I relied on parts express who sells a variety of speaker parts. I am very pleased with the results as the hi’s have a new-found vividness where the worn out OEM Harmon Kardon equipment could no longer reproduce.

Here are the list of parts I put together for my speaker replacements.

Front Doors
Tweeter: Dayton Audio ND20FB-4 Rear-Mount 3/4″ Soft Dome Neodymium Tweeter
Brand: Dayton Audio
Model: ND20FB-4
Part#: 275-035

Mid-range: Peerless by Tymphany NE65W-04 2″ Full Range Woofer
Brand: Peerless
Model: NE65W-04
Part#: 264-1046

Mid-bass: Dayton Audio ND140-4 5-1/4″ Aluminum Cone Midbass Driver 4 Ohm
Brand: Dayton Audio
Model: ND140-4
Part#: 290-216

Rear Door
Mid-range: Peerless by Tymphany NE65W-04 2″ Full Range Woofer
Brand: Peerless
Model: NE65W-04
Part#: 264-1046

Rear Deck
Mid-bass: Dayton Audio RS150P-4A 6″ Reference Paper Woofer 4 Ohm
Brand: Dayton Audio
Model: RS150P-4A
Part#: 295-563

Adapters Required
(2) Pair’s of Scosche SABW525

1. Starting with the front door remove the door card. There are numerous instructions online to remove the door cars and even some speaker companies have a detailed PDF for removal.

2. Install the 5.25 speaker into the SABW525 adapter to install on the front door. To create the connection for the OEM wiring I removed the connector from the OEM speaker and soldered it to the new speaker as seen in the pictures. The OEM screws were not long enough so I replaced them with 1/2 inch – 8/32 Philips head screws.





3. To install the mid-range in the front door I modified the circular housing by removing the raised vertical bar. This allowed me to push the circular speaker into place. Be careful not to break the lip of the housing, these are fragile. I placed the lip over the side of the table as seen in the picture. I also used the OEM connector by removing it from the stock speaker and soldering it to the new 2″ speaker.







4. Finally installing the tweeter was a bit different since the OEM speaker is integrated into a bracket so I was creative. I used the styrofoam padding as the mounting point for the tweeter and glued points on the rear mount of the tweeter to keep it in place. Instead of using the OEM connection points I cut them off and crimped standard speaker push on terminals.






5. To replace the speakers in the rear door, remove the door card then remove the stock speaker. For this speaker I used the OEM housing by gluing the rim of the speaker to the inside door mount. Once it set for an hour I re-installed it into the door card.


6. Finally to install the speaker in the rear deck you will again need the Scosche SABW525. This time however they need to be modified to fit correctly. I used a saw to remove the extended screw terminals as seen in the pictures. Once done it is easy to install the speaker in the factory location. I cut the OEM connector off the car and crimped on push on terminal connectors.







I will say the install was not very hard once I had all the proper hardware. The problems I ran into were not having the right screw sizes, having to modify the brackets for the rear deck and a few other items I pointed out. I am very happy with the results and hope this will help other enthusiasts save a few dollars by doing a little work instead of forking out for a plug and play setup.

From → Cars, Tech

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